What about using decals to print the sides and wings for coloring and details...I have done some skins for 3d models, and it seemed like a natural to do some profile art and print them out on water slide decals...or is that too heavy? I can see some photo-realistic decals coming off my printer...if it isn't too heavy.

From : Don Stackhouse

I would not recommend covering entire fuselages or wings with this method, it's likely to be too heavy and the water could warp the wood. Also, the rough surface of the bare wood seems to provide some natural turbulation that seems to improve max lift and reduce drag. Using decals just for insignias and numbers is probably fine, provided that you can keep the water to a minimum to avoid warping, and still get good adhesion.

We've been using label stock to make stickers for the same purpose with excellent results. Printing onto ordinary bond paper and sticking the insignias on with spray contact adhesive such as 3M 77 also works. I'm slowly accumulating a library of insignias and stickers for the various RK Series models, and we're planning to post them on our website for downloading. They're all in .BMP format so you can print them out in Microsoft Paint (everybody who has Windows has a copy of Paint included with it). I don't have one for the A6M5 yet, but I have the one I made for the A6M2 in the photos on our website, which should be a good starting point. I've attached a copy of it for you.

For the base color we recommend permanent felt markers. We've also had good results on lighter colors (such as the light gray on the A6M2 Zero) by fogging on a very light coat of spray paint, just enough to tint the wood. Fog the paint on in a couple of very light coats, holding the can about 18" to 24" from the model. Remember, you're just trying to tint the wood, not seal it. We've also had good results with darker colors by wiping on airbrush paint with a rag that's just dampened with paint. Airbrush paint has very strong and intense pigments for good coverage, and wiping it on requires less paint than spraying it if you do it just right. Practice on some scrap balsa first.

The A6M2 in the website photos was done with fogged on spray paint. The Lockheed Electra used fogged-on Dupli-Color "Radiant Silver" automotive touch-up spray paint from the car section at our local Meijer store to create a very effective simulated natural aluminum finish. The P-40B used fogged-on spray paint for the gray undersides and permanent markers for the green and brown upper surfaces, with insignias and numbers printed on label stock. I touched up the lighter areas along the glue joints with brushed-on Tamiya water-base acrylic paint for Lexan R/C car bodies. The Camel used wiped on airbrush paint for the upper surfaces and natural balsa color for the beige undersides. Obviously there are lots of techniques that work. The key is to keep it as light as possible.

Don Stackhouse
DJ Aerotech