I ordered a road kill Corsair and it came through in record time and perfect condition. Am building the wings at present. The isometric drawings are fine and I see little problem with the construction except just how to install the steerable (?) tail wheel

From : Don Stackhouse

See page 2, step # 13. The yellow plastic tube that you threaded onto the tailwheel strut in step 12 gets glued to the side of the fuselage, using medium C/A or 5-minute epoxy, in line with the rudder hinge line, so that the bottom end of the tube is flush with the bottom edge of the fuselage. The bent-over top end of the tailwheel strut gets glued to the side of the rudder, just below the rudder horn, using medium C/A or 5-minute epoxy. You might have to twist the strut a bit to get the tailwheel exactly in line with the rudder.

and final adjustment, but both of these can be figured out.

That occurs in steps #16 on page 2 and #17 on page 3. Temporarily tape the ailerons in neutral, then with the aileron horns held vertical relative to the thrust line, glue the bent-up inboard ends of the aileron torque rods to the inside faces of the aileron horns, using medium C/A or 5-minute epoxy. Now assemble the pushrods from the aileron servo to the aileron horns, the pushrods from the right aileron horn to the rudder, and the elevator pushrod. Note that each of these pushrods is in two pieces, with their ends stuck into a piece of the black heat-shrink tubing as shown in step #16 on page 2. After shrinking the tubing, adjust each pushrod as necessary so that with the servos in neutral, all the controls are in neutral. Once you're happy with all of those adjustments, wick a tiny bit of thin C/A into the ends of the shrink tubing sleeves to lock the adjustments. Be careful not to let any C/A get into the yellow tubing pushrod guides!

If for some reason you need to re-adjust the pushrods later, just grab the pushrod with pliers on both sides of the shrink tubing sleeve, twist the wires to break the C/A bond, then slide the wires in or out of the tube to make the adjustment. There should still be enough friction from the C/A to hold the new adjustment, but you can re-apply the C/A to lock the adjustment again if desired.

But the fact that no mention was made of the CG,

No, the 3 pages of instructions cover everything. There is no plans sheet. Instructions are a delicate balance, they have to give enough info to build the kit, but not enough to make it easy to make pirated copies, and they have to show enough detail to explain the processes, but not so much that folks get intimidated and don't bother to read them.

We've learned through experience that any given set of instructions will be too much for some folks and not enough for others. Looking at the sum total of customer feedback for the Roadkill Series, it appears that these models have done the best job of achieving this balance out of any of our kits to date. However, we are planning to add a fourth page with some additional info, and make some of the blocks larger, and with more text to explain the more complex things in a bit more detail (not too much more though, or nobody will read them!). I'm not sure how soon we'll finish that effort, the original instructions represent hundreds of hours of 3-D CAD work, and the revisions are a huge additional effort. In the meantime, if there's anything you're having trouble with (such as this example), just ask and I'll try to talk you through it!

Don Stackhouse
DJ Aerotech